“The matt finish has a slight theatrical baroque quality, similar to the Marie Antoinette period, or even that of a porcelain doll of the time. Still this is a very wearable, trendy look easily pulled off by those in touch with their inner fashion icon”
ROSE IN WAITING
This is a unique, bright look that makes an impact. A classic matt finish balances out the cheeks, done in a more vivid pink palette, which is a definite element of the doll face make up trend popular for SS16.London based make up artist Carlos Palma, creates a look reminiscent of the quintessential English Rose heroin straight out of a Jane Austen novel, flushed by the notion her suitor may be on the horizon coming to find her. The matt finish has a slight theatrical baroque quality, similar to the Marie Antoinette period, or even that of a porcelain doll of the time. Still this is a very wearable, trendy look easily pulled off by those in touch with their inner fashion icon.
Create the Look: Carlos begins by using a light, water-based foundation or tinted moisturiser, using a neutral setting powder to achieve a matt finish. He then applies a bright pink blush (Shu Uemura Glow On), concentrating on the apples of the cheeks.
On the brow bone, he uses the same blush applied to the cheeks, blending in the colour. Beforehand, he applies a matt modicum brown eyeshadow along the lash line, contrasting with the pink on the brow bone. Make sure the colours are well blended so the look remains feminine.
Without the use of a heavy liner, but a few coats of black mascara, the doll eye look is achieved on a more natural level. You can add a few fake eyelashes in strategic places to achieve the edgier doll look you are seeing on catwalks. Finish the lips with a colour similar to the colour used on the cheeks. Carlos used a matte MAC lipstick for this model, and says “it is all about matching the lip and cheek colour”.
Many different complexions can wear this look, it is just a matter of choosing the right shades of pink vibrant enough for your complexion. Avoid streaking, blend blend blend!
THE CLASSIC ROSE
This is a more toned down version of the modern day English Rose. With a vast selection of beautiful foundations and primers on the market, women can wear natural looks that give off the appearance of a healthy complexion. This look can be worn by any age, it gives the impression of well-being, elegance and softens the features with a translucent radiance.
Create the Look: Carlos often emphasises the natural beauty of his models by creating looks based around their strongest features. In most cases, he begins with giving their skin a flawless finish by highlighting in all the right places, then builds from there.
To achieve the appearance of healthy, glowing skin, Carlos used a water-based foundation, finishing off with a loose translucent powder containing a bit of sheen. Always blend foundation down into the clavicle to avoid a ‘masked’ appearance. He then applies a bronzer to the hollow of the cheeks and a light dusting of a soft rosy blush to the cheek bones. Shu Uemura ‘Glow On’ has a highlighting effect, and beautiful pigment that blends to perfection. It is one of the best blushes on the market, a product Carlos uses with regularity for his shoots.
Next he uses a medium brown eye shadow on the lower lash line and on the lids, giving the model a doe eyed effect, followed by a couple coats of black mascara. This model has beautiful eye brows, which Carlos accentuates and grooms with Benefit ‘Gimme Brow’. Avoid heavy pencils, or any attempt at creating a stencilled eye brow. Keep the arch as natural as possible.
A soft rose pink lipstick in a creamy formula, or gloss completes this delicate look. Avoid lip liner unless you can seamlessly blend it to look natural. Some ladies tend to exaggerate the peaks of their lips, or draw over the lip line in such a way, there is no telling where their actual lips are, and it is noticeable ladies. Use a lip brush and carefully apply, add a dab of a lighter colour to the centre of your lips if you want to emphasis them instead.
For the hair, Carlos created a natural wave with a bit of curling, then back combed and parted her hair in the middle. The era of pin straight hair, processed to within an inch of its life is now over. Natural healthy locks prevail alongside a more tousled less finished look.
Hair and Make up by Carlos Palma. He is a freelance make up artist/hair stylist that has been working in print, television, fashion, and with celebrities for 20 years. He has worked alongside photographers such asHelmut Newton and Steven Meisel, and also runs an exclusive bridal business doing hair and make up.